la vuelta - week one in poems
Stage 1: Utrecht to Utrecht The road has a story yet to tell, & the riders like in a dream are held before a glossy field of red, the soft air pounded by amplified voices & music. They twitch on their sinuous machines, a countdown flashing on the bright wall behind them, & when they’re released, sparks sprout like trees to either side, so that the only way forward is down the ramp, onto streets of searing lungs & burning legs, the race fast & suddenly very real. Stage 2: ‘s-Hertogenbosch to Utrecht The peloton glides over bridges, water placid in the rivers, fields rough-greened & august-browned, & though the sea-level sunlight falls gently & the asphalt stretches as flat as a page from a book, the riders at the tip of the race bury their hearts in the furnace of long pulls & desperation too many kilometers from the finish. & so we know the long-shadowed swarm of sprinters are destined to sweep through roundabouts & across narrow roads until they charge sweat-blurred for the line. Stage 3: Breda to Breda One last lowland loop. Brick buildings & bike-flash in rows of windows. Streams of multicolor roadsides. Streaks of raucous Vuelta red. Under the trees, the roads squeeze the race, as bikes whip around road furniture. The breakaway is caught at the right time before the line. Lead-out riders clip off the front like petals pulled from a blossom. A sprinter repeats his last one.
Stage 4: Vitoria-Gasteiz to Laguardia Finally, Spain. Sunlight reflects off everything. The road & its metal guardrails & white dashed lines. Tawny stone buildings & hard, tawny earth—exposed rock in the hills bright beneath thick trees. White-hot flashes into the cameras from the riders’ helmets & sunglasses. Dry & striated vineyards, raked Zen gardens from the helicopter. The mountains in the background— sharp Basque climbs—loom like question marks. Who else but the man most comfortable in red to tackle them? Stage 5: Irun to Bilbao Agonizing, the seconds left on the road after the all-day flight along the coast, up & down the green hills in the heat despite the softly overcast sky. The day spent spending legs, energy, chances, cutting through the crowded slopes, ikurriñas snapping at wheels, a smattering of orange instead of red. How difficult it is to watch the chasers sling through the web of city streets, the seconds between them & the lone leader almost tangible on the screen, as if we could squeeze the gap closed simply by willing it so. Call it what it is a reprieve, a mistake, a survival fed on bravery. The agony of the break. Stage 6: Bilbao to Ascensión al Pico Jano. San Miguel de Aguayo The fog comes with a cycling fan’s passion to northern Spain: hanging out all over the climbs, parting only for the riders as they prowl like hungry-eyed cats into unseen kilometers. It tests their faith that the finish exists somewhere up the narrow ribbon of asphalt, & does not leave even after the first lone rider crosses the line in damp, obscured joy.
Stage 7: Camargo to Cistierna Between sobs, a single word: agua. A film of dust & sweat shines on the skin of the rider sitting with legs splayed at the end of the road. The rider is broken by joy & emptied by the all-day effort climbing up the plateau, his unlikely sprint just enough for the win. His soigneur cracks open a plastic bottle & pours small amounts delicately onto the neck & helmet-matted hair of the rider, washing away the salt & road grim with his own bare hands. The soigneur can barely contain his pride. He’s trying to cool & clean his rider, but his hands won’t obey completely, stopping every now & then to embrace the rider’s tired, heaving shoulders. He holds the rider, pulls his head to his lips. He can’t help it. Cameras flash. Reporters crouch & speak breathlessly into microphones. The sun shifts behind some clouds, & the rider’s deep gasps slow & his eyes clear. The reporters press closer. The soigneur, still shaking with happiness, moves away to give his rider some space. Stage 8: La Pola Llaviana/Pola de Laviana to Colláu Fancuaya. Yernes y Tameza It’s a pilgrimage. Pain, a certainty throughout the lumpy day. The road twists through jumbles of mountain villages. Mossy outcroppings & caves. Dark stone & timber chapels. Green slopes leading into fog again. & again it’s with a swift cadence that the solo rider ascends the final climb, a grimace turned heavenward. The sun breaks through, lifts the mist off the summit. Disbelief transmutes into the familiar grin of victory. Stage 9: Villaviciosa to Les Praeres How do you measure savagery in a sport without body contact? Yes, the strongest can blow up the pack, shredding the invisible filaments that hold front wheels to rear wheels. & yes, the deck can savage the spilled body. But it’s often the race route that proves the most vicious. Serpentine descents of inevitable undoing. Climbs of unforgiving steepness. & so, as the lightweight climber forges up the Asturian wall, beckoned by the summit’s peaceful grassland, we can see in his hollow stare & determined cadence that even the rampaging red jersey won’t reel him in with a dream-denying savagery reflected by the demands of gravity & the pitch of the narrow mountain road. Across the line he’ll roll, tires whitened by dust, holding his arms weakly aloft, as if giving himself over to the hungry beast of the climb. His first grand tour win.
Dane Hamann is a Chicagoland editor and poet. His book A Thistle Stuck in the Throat of the Sun (Kelsay Books, 2021) is ostensibly about running. His second book, Parsing the Echoes, a collection of ekphrastic poems, is forthcoming from Main Street Rag Publishing Company. Occasional tweets @donnyhamms.
Sublime! So good! Thank you!
Beautiful. This is the best reportage I've read about the Vuelta. I also admire the diversity of the poems. Amazing.